Friday, January 25, 2008

Lilongwe, Malawi



It is Friday and the second day here in Malawi. I arrived yesterday in the early afternoon after a short stay at the Nairobi Airport in Kenya. I had been studying the security reports (I receive three from two different sources) to assess any risk to the airport. Mr. Franko, the Save the Children dedicated travel agent, informed me that there were no flight cancellations. I am not one to be overly concerned about such things. But I do like to be informed so that I can make the best decision. I learned this from Save the Children’s security unit and from a brief discussion with Paul O'Neil, whom I literally bumped into while trying to locate the coffee in the Save the Children Washington DC office.

The violence and demonstrations over the disputed elections and tribal conflicts were continuing in Nairobi and other regions to the north. The only evidence that I saw was an increased in armed guards in the airport terminal and even patrolling on the tarmac.

I was picked up by a driver from the Save the children here in the capital city of Lilongwe. Mali is a small country, but very green (during the rainy season) and full of friendly, accepting people. The country is notable for Lake Malawi, which occupies nearly 1/5 of this entire narrow land in south central Africa. This lake is often called the "year" lake, since it is approximately 365 miles long and 52 miles wide. My GPS unit showed it being at about 3,440 feet elevation, which explains in part the relatively cool weather just 13 degrees south of the equator.



Derrick, the driver, took me to the Capital Hotel. At first look, I thought to myself, "This will be comfortable". Actually, I can stand a bit more uncomfortable than this fine hotel - a little too fancy for me. In part, I saw this, because I have noted that the predisposition to being able to converse with strangers staying at a hotel is in inverse proportion to the price of the lodging. Still, I am not complaining, but the Capital Hotel will be very secure and restful before my field work commences, and the office negotiated a very fine rate for my room. I realize that it is prudent to not talk to strangers, but gee whiz, everyone has the ability to be polite when one is greeted. Maybe when I am more successful and think more highly of my position, I will be less likely to press a greeting.



On the other hand it is so easy to talk to the housekeepers, groundskeepers, etc. They are very friendly here and not at all surprised to be greeted. For instance, I walked outside the corridor from my room and noticed a man who had just set down what looked like a heavy cardboard box. I walked over to him and greeted him in English, since I have neglected to teach myself any Chichewa phrases. I could tell that he knew English probably only a bit better than my Chichewa. But, I tapped the box in front of us with my foot. He did indicate that it was full of glasses. I leaned forward slightly at my waist as he looked on, then I grasped my lower back with the palm of my hand. At this, he smiled and we both chuckled. We both understood that this was a very heavy box to lift and to carry. We indicated goodbye and we both walked away laughing. So easy....



On the other hand, when I was asked at the Save the Children office what I would like to eat for lunch, I found myself at the local eatery in the same building. I could hear the discussion on where to take me. I encounter this often as everyone sincerely wants me to feel comfortable and at home. I finally interrupted and simply asked, "Where do all of you eat for lunch?" I was told that a cafe was within this business complex just a few doors away. I replied, "That is where I want to eat also!"

Well, that was my kind of place. Reuben the Office Administrator, who accompanied me quickly pointed out that I could use a fork or a spoon for the Nsima (similar to corn grits from the American South) if I preferred. I quickly noticed that everyone in this crowded cafe were using their hands, which I am familiar with, especially since I travel to Muslim countries. After ordering our meal, Reuben directed me to a small table up front which was empty. On it were two plastic glasses filled with Western-style utensils - spoon, fork, and knife. There was no way that I was going to pick up any of those implements when the food arrived. All eyes were glancing at me time to time, especially when the food arrived. Smiles glimmered as I began eating with my right hand - the correct hand.



On our return back to the office from our dining experience I noticed a sign above a storefront advertising as an insurance agency. It stated that it Offered Protection from First Class Professionals. I know that for myself that I likely do not encounter first class professionals requiring that I obtain some level of protection from their unscrupulous advances. Rather, I probably would need protection from the mediocre grade of professionals. But, I thought that I should, in any case stop, in and ask for a list of these high-grade professionals so as to be on the alert for their subterfuge! I am not totally ignorant that my North American delivery of English communication is the only correct method in the world. Each country that uses the English language has developed their own functional linguistics of deployment. Still, one finds individual humor at the unlikeliest turns and it is best probably spared from being shared beyond one's self. You decide.


I spoke by phone with Amy Richmond who is the Program/Sponsorship manager located in the Mangochi District in the Southern Region of Malawi. We discussed my arrival in Mangochi and a few logistical details. I will have ten persons for my two day training session. This will be great! Later, I also spoke with the Country Office Director (COD) Paul MeCartney. Paul was among the most unassuming, engaging COD that I have spoken with.

Most of my day was spent with the IT Manager and Field Office Regional Technician (FORT) for the Africa Area, Kondwani Mtalimanja. On Sunday, I will travel to this area to conduct the training. We will have an opportunity to field test some forms, and then I will return late Thursday to catch a flight the following day back to the U.S.

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Dear Mr. Isaac,
I was born in Malawi and think of it still. Your blog took me there in for a few minutes. Thank you, what a nice Christmas present .VT

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